Category Archives: Uncategorized

Reviewing, But Not Reviewing Nash 19

This was my first restaurant ‘review’ after lockdown ended, fetching up to a dining establishment, ordering and eating food and then subsequently writing about it in the Irish Examiner, yet it wasn’t a regular or routine review—even the most familiar has taken on a different cast or hue in these strange new times. https://www.irishexaminer.com/lifestyle/food/arid-40014584.html

Dining out in a post-coronavirus world

Here’s an opinion piece I wrote for last weekend’s Irish Examiner, offering a perspective on the possible future for Irish dining and hospitality during Covid-19 and its aftermath. It has long been one of my most favourite things to do, to break bread with friends and loved ones in all manner of dining establishments, fromContinue reading “Dining out in a post-coronavirus world”

The Comfort Feed Podcast

Like many people, I’ve always found it hard to listen to the sound of my own recorded voice, and inevitably squirm with embarrassment listening back to any interviews I’ve ever done on radio (TV comes with the added horror of seeing myself filling out the widest of wide screens; obviously a lot of issues!). SoContinue reading “The Comfort Feed Podcast”

The Cultured Club, by Dearbhla Reynolds

(An extended version of my regular Irish Examiner cookbook reviews.) Despite being the cook in our house, a daily communicant at the stove, lockdown now has me whiling away hours in the kitchen at a rate not seen since I last wielded a skillet in a professional capacity, way back when God was just anContinue reading “The Cultured Club, by Dearbhla Reynolds”

The Menu in a Time of Crisis (guidelines for submission)

For the duration of the coronavirus crisis, I am turning my weekly Irish Examiner food column into a class of community bulletin board posting information of any alternative initiatives being undertaken by any in the Irish hospitality sector (restaurants, cafes, pubs, hotels, food trucks, takeaways, etc) to continue to trade. I will also be featuringContinue reading “The Menu in a Time of Crisis (guidelines for submission)”

South, by Sean Brock

Extended version of my review of South, by Sean Brock, from The Menu, my weekly Irish Examiner food column Cookbook: South (Artisan), by Sean Brock Skim the surface and Sean Brock appears a facsimile of the 21st century hipster chef: food tattoos; visceral attachment to meat (in his case, pork); zealous advocate for the gospelContinue reading “South, by Sean Brock”

Cupcakes in a Time of Crisis

After speaking at a recent food conference at UCC, Innovation in Irish Food and Drink: Past, Present and Future, I was subsequently invited by Airfield Estate CEO Gráinne Kelliher to deliver something similar at their inaugural Airfield Estate Irish Foodscape talks series. Airfield Estate is a wonderful 38-acre working city farm in Dundrum, in Dublin, complete withContinue reading “Cupcakes in a Time of Crisis”

Idá’s Restaurant, Dingle

The Swashbuachaill was abroad once more, down in Dingle for the annual food festival and what is also becoming an annual event, a return to one of my very favourite restaurants, Idá’s, owned and operated by the sublimely talented Chef/Proprietor Kevin Murphy. On this particular night, I got to hang out in the kitchen for the first serviceContinue reading “Idá’s Restaurant, Dingle”

Dishing Up the Nosebag at A Taste of West Cork Food Festival 2015

It has taken The Swashbuachaill some weeks to recover from his recent foray back into the professional culinary world when he presented a nine-course menu in the magnificent surroundings of Uillinn, home of the West Cork Arts Centre, in Skibbereen, as part of the Taste of West Cork food festival. He was delighted and honoured toContinue reading “Dishing Up the Nosebag at A Taste of West Cork Food Festival 2015”