Dishing Up the Nosebag at A Taste of West Cork Food Festival 2015

seafoodUilinn — Cold Smoked Loin of Tuna, Lemon Basil Aioli; Smoked Mackerel, Wasabi Crème Fraiche; Gin Gimlet Scallops, Cucumber Risotto, Pickled Samphire. (Photo: Trish Deseine)

It has taken The Swashbuachaill some weeks to recover from his recent foray back into the professional culinary world when he presented a nine-course menu in the magnificent surroundings of Uillinn, home of the West Cork Arts Centre, in Skibbereen, as part of the Taste of West Cork food festival. He was delighted and honoured to be invited by chairperson Helen Collins and the festival team to participate in this wonderful celebration of some of the finest food to be found anywhere in the world and it was billed as ‘The Menu Cooks The Menu” a nod to his epicurean alter ego and the title of his weekly food column, The Menu, in The Irish Examiner, the idea being to showcase some of the very splendid Irish produce he features each week in the aforementioned publication.

The main gallery, West Cork Arts Centre, ‘dining hall’ for the night

Every ‘guest chef’ visiting the festival is partnered with a ‘hometown’ restaurant to provide logistical support but The Swashbuachaill/Menu truly lucked out in being paired with Chef Siobhan O’Callaghan, the proprietor, along with her husband, Anthony Boyle, of Kalbo’s Restaurant and Kalbo’s at The Uillinn, both in Skibbereen, the latter a coffee dock and sandwich and snack bar with a lovely courtyard, attached to the arts centre. Siobhan and Anthony (also a local organic farmer at Thornhill Organic Farm) have a passion and commitment to the very finest Irish produce that mirrors The Swashbuachaill’s own and it truly was a pleasure to work with them.

Photo: Anne Minihane. — The Swashbuachaill and Siobhan O’Callaghan with assembled guests on the night. Photo: Anne Minihane

There is no kitchen in Kalbo’s at the Uillinn so The Swashbuachaill was compelled to do the bulk of the prep work and advance cooking in his secret lair further West on Mizen Peninsula and then on the day itself, utilise a single portable induction hob so all fare served was at ‘ambient’ temperature (in other words, room temperature) but that is not to say it was easy to dish up. In fact, it would have been impossible without Siobhan assuming command of all front of house duties, beginning by converting the admittedly incredible main gallery into an even more wonderful dining hall for the evening and then marshalling her superb Kalbo’s crew (Denise Lyons, John Allan, Megels Hurden and Karen Flavin) into a seamless team on the night, not only delivering nine courses to the 30 guests but also pitching in with the plating up.

It also behooves The Swashbuachaill/Menu to pay tribute to Ann Davoren and the staff of the West Cork Arts Centre for allowing their wonderful space to be converted into an impromptu restaurant. (Furthermore, we ‘gatecrashed’ a superb Charlie Tyrell exhibition, his splendid paintings displayed all around the dining area.)

tyrell02 — No dogs playing snooker or little boys crying on the walls for The Swashbuachaill; nothing less than the splendid Charlie Tyrell, please

Finally, this event simply would not have happened without the producers themselves, nearly every last one from Cork county, and their magnificent produce shone forth in every dish. (All are listed below, along with the menu served up on the night.) Much of it was procured the day before at the very excellent Skibbereen Farmer’s Market and, all in all, The Swashbuachaill/Menu cannot thank them enough for their support.

The next such culinary adventure takes place in the very lovely L’Atitude 51 wine café (formerly The Lobby Bar), on Union Quay, in Cork city, where The Swashbuachaill/Menu will once again serve up a seasonal menu of tasting dishes while his journalistic compadre, Leslie Williams, erstwhile Irish Examiner wine columnist serves up the wines to match. This takes place on November 19^th, with all proceeds going to the very splendid Pieta House, the suicide and self-harm crisis centre, a charity dear to The Swashbuachaill’s heart.

plating — The real heroes on the night: (from left to right) John Allan, Karen Flavin, Megels Hurden, Denis Lyons, Siobhan O’Callaghan

The Menu Cooks the Menu

Sunday, September 6th, 2015

The Gloaming Gulp: Bertha’s Revenge Milk Gin, Prosecco, Cucumber, Lime, Honey, Mint
Miso & Saffron Butter, Sourdough Bread
Chicken, Dillisk, Skibbereen Farmer’s Market Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers
Cold Smoked Loin of Tuna, Lemon Basil Aioli; Smoked Mackerel, Wasabi Crème Fraiche; Gin Gimlet Scallops, Cucumber Risotto, Pickled Samphire
Smoked Duck Breast, Mushrooms, Leaves, Quail’s Egg, Croutons
Spiced Beef, Market Vegetables, Tomatoes, Leaves, Elephant Garlic Bagna Cauda, Sourdough Bread
Milleens, Sheridan’s Brown Bread Crackers
Sweet Geranium Jelly, Almond Sponge, Rhubarb, Custard, Vanilla Ricotta Cream
Golden Bean Coffee Finca La Fany (custom-roasted for The Menu)
Or Kingfisher Teas Moroccan Mint Green Tea, Honey
& Siobhán’s Drombeg Truffles

WINES (with many thanks to Christine Nagle, Western Beverages, 086 819 8630)
White: Albarino, Agnusdei Val do Salnas, 2013
Red: Pinot Noir, Domaine Peiriere by Paul Sapin 2013

SUPPLIERS, PRODUCERS AND GROWERS

MUSHROOMS, CEP OIL, CEP VINEGAR Lucy Deegan & Mark Cribben, Ballyhoura Mushrooms