Tag Archives: Irish Examiner

Reviewing, But Not Reviewing Nash 19

This was my first restaurant ‘review’ after lockdown ended, fetching up to a dining establishment, ordering and eating food and then subsequently writing about it in the Irish Examiner, yet it wasn’t a regular or routine review—even the most familiar has taken on a different cast or hue in these strange new times. https://www.irishexaminer.com/lifestyle/food/arid-40014584.html

Dining out in a post-coronavirus world

Here’s an opinion piece I wrote for last weekend’s Irish Examiner, offering a perspective on the possible future for Irish dining and hospitality during Covid-19 and its aftermath. It has long been one of my most favourite things to do, to break bread with friends and loved ones in all manner of dining establishments, fromContinue reading “Dining out in a post-coronavirus world”

The Cultured Club, by Dearbhla Reynolds

(An extended version of my regular Irish Examiner cookbook reviews.) Despite being the cook in our house, a daily communicant at the stove, lockdown now has me whiling away hours in the kitchen at a rate not seen since I last wielded a skillet in a professional capacity, way back when God was just anContinue reading “The Cultured Club, by Dearbhla Reynolds”

The Menu in a Time of Crisis (guidelines for submission)

For the duration of the coronavirus crisis, I am turning my weekly Irish Examiner food column into a class of community bulletin board posting information of any alternative initiatives being undertaken by any in the Irish hospitality sector (restaurants, cafes, pubs, hotels, food trucks, takeaways, etc) to continue to trade. I will also be featuringContinue reading “The Menu in a Time of Crisis (guidelines for submission)”

South, by Sean Brock

Extended version of my review of South, by Sean Brock, from The Menu, my weekly Irish Examiner food column Cookbook: South (Artisan), by Sean Brock Skim the surface and Sean Brock appears a facsimile of the 21st century hipster chef: food tattoos; visceral attachment to meat (in his case, pork); zealous advocate for the gospelContinue reading “South, by Sean Brock”

Idá’s Restaurant, Dingle

The Swashbuachaill was abroad once more, down in Dingle for the annual food festival and what is also becoming an annual event, a return to one of my very favourite restaurants, Idá’s, owned and operated by the sublimely talented Chef/Proprietor Kevin Murphy. On this particular night, I got to hang out in the kitchen for the first serviceContinue reading “Idá’s Restaurant, Dingle”

Asturias and Cantabria, Northern Spain

The Swashbuachaill has been off on yet another skite to his beloved Spain. He has more than a few dear Spanish friends and has long held the view that they are closer in temperament to the Irish than most other peoples of Europe. For years, his Spanish meanderings were concentrated in the South, most particularly, Andalucia,Continue reading “Asturias and Cantabria, Northern Spain”

More Than Just a Cheap Cut

Along with almost every other journo in Grub Street, I have been asked to write about ‘cheap eating’ and have just written an article (published in today’s Irish Examiner) about saving money on food shopping for the family, specifically, how to buy meat for less.

10 Cookbooks You Should Own?

It’s the closest I’ve come to generating a twitter firestorm – well, maybe more of a twitter firelog but it’s certainly the most tweets I’ve ever received in response to a query for an article I was writing, published in the Irish Examiner Weekend Magazine. The query? Name ten cookbooks you should own. And thenContinue reading “10 Cookbooks You Should Own?”

Oil Crisis?

Here’s a link to my recent Irish Examiner review of a tremendous – and tremendously important – book, Extra Virginity: The Scandalous and Sublime World of Olive Oil by Thomas Mueller (Atlantic Books) Read more: http://www.irishexaminer.com/opinion/books/virgin-on-the-ridiculous-why-olive-oil-will-be-hard-pressed-to-survive-187400.html#ixzz1qcVLcoJG Though I ate a shedload of Mediterranean food in London during the 80s, olive oil remained a rather nebulousContinue reading “Oil Crisis?”